When preparing this dish at home, consider selecting a local organic chicken, mushrooms, butter and herbs in keeping with the European tradition of emphasizing local ingredients. For sides, consider rice pilaf or sautéed spinach. “I recommend only the rice, since the dish has pearl onions and mushrooms,” notes Cohen.

For a beverage, Brasserie Pavil sommolier Adam Spencer recommends “a hearty, rustic light-to-medium red.” In particular he suggests either a Louis Jadot Pommard 2005 or Delas Frères St. Esprit Côtes du Rhône 2007, both of which are offered at the restaurant.

Coq Au Vin
Serves 4

3-pound chicken, cut into serving pieces
2 Tbsp. rendered chicken fat (or combine 1 Tbsp. butter, 1 Tbsp. olive oil)
5 oz. bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4 in. pieces
3 onions, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 lb. mushrooms, quartered
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 cup Cognac or brandy
8 cups dry red wine
1 bouquet garni (dried parsley, thyme, bay leaf, tied in a cheesecloth)
2 Tbsp. butter
3 Tbsp. flour
Salt and pepper to taste

Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. In a sauté pan, melt the chicken fat (or butter and oil) and brown the chicken pieces all over. Transfer the chicken to a large casserole pan.

In the same sauté pan, pan-fry the bacon over medium heat until the fat is rendered and the bacon is golden brown. Sprinkle the bacon pieces over the chicken. Sauté the onions and garlic in the bacon fat until golden brown. Transfer the onion mixture to the chicken. Add the mushroom to the same pan, season with salt and sauté until the mushroom liquid evaporates. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate and set aside.

Stir the tomato paste and Cognac or brandy into the pan with the chicken, ignite and let the flames subside. Pour in the red wine. Add the bouquet garni and season to taste. Cover and cook over a low heat for 45 minutes, or until the chicken is tender when pierced with a fork. Transfer the chicken to a large plate and cover with foil to keep warm.

Bring the sauce to a boil over high heat and reduce by half. In a small bowl, mash the butter with flour to make a paste and whisk it into the sauce until smooth and thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper if needed. Add the chicken to the mushrooms and simmer for five minutes to heat.